26 Apr 13

Weather forecast is the same, so we decided to go straight to Key West. It is a 20 hour trip, so we decided to leave about noon, with the intent of arriving at the Northwest Channel (entry to Key West) at about sunrise on Saturday. We had a nice walk into the Starbucks in Naples and stopped at CVS for some last-minute supplies, then back to the boat and away from the dock at 11:40. The marina fuel dock was filling up a couple of big power boats, so we went to the Naples City dock to fuel up and pump out. During the pump out, Terri was the recipient of what we like to call a “kick-back”; i.e., she got splattered liberally with what we had been eating for the previous few days; she was not amused, but it is another excellent example of the high glamour of the cruising life. Finally underway out in the Gulf, the wind was light NE 5 - 10, shifting to NW 5 - 10 later in the afternoon. Perfect broad reach in very light chop. I hoisted the spinnaker and we had a lovely afternoon. By late afternoon, the wind got very light and flukey, so we doused the sails and motored to maintain our 5 knot average. About 22:00, all hell broke loose; the wind went to E 17 - 22 and the seas were short, steep and 4 - 7’ on the beam. It was so rough, it was impossible to stay in the bunk much less sleep. The boat was working hard, the cabin was a wreck and bilge water started splashing up through the floor boards. 

27 Apr 13

We sailed and motored throughout the night, with both of us hanging on like grim death in the cockpit and dodging waves and spray. Dawn never looked so good. We raised the entry buoy light just before sunrise and entered the channel, where the waves finally flattened out a bit. The marina was not ready for us as it was so early, so we anchored for a couple of hours in the lee of Wisteria Island and tried to nap a bit. The marina called us in about 10:30; after we got tied up, we took a real nap. I woke up about 15:30, starving, and followed my ears to the Schooner Wharf bar, where I had an excellent late breakfast of a fish taco and a beer, while listening to Mike McCloud belt out his classic “National Anthem of the Conch Republic” (quote: “I’d rather be here, just drinking a beer than freezing my ass off up north”). Terri, Pat and Sam eventually caught up with me and we wandered around Key West listening to live music at an Irish bar on Duval street and at the Hog’s Breath Saloon (check out the music of Chris Gelbuda), drinking beer, watching the sunset at Mallory Square, doing a little tango to a Cuban street band and generally having a good time. We all crashed about 21:00 and went back to the boat to catch up on sleep.

28 Apr 13

After a long sleep-in, we woke up more or less refreshed and put the boat back together. Then we wandered into town again and bought some good cocktail glasses with lids, had lunch at the Hog’s Breath (more live music), visited the West Marine, had a beer at the K.O. Fish (reputed by Key West residents to be the best fish place in town) and had dinner mojitos at Pepe’s (oldest restaurant in Key West).

29 Apr 13

We unlimbered the bikes and went for a ride around town, starting with the Southernmost House and the Southernmost Cafe in the USA. Sign says 90 miles to Cuba. We visited the Little White House (and Truman Museum) and the Truman Annex (former base housing, now lovely condo development). Later, Terri and I went to the La Concha Hotel roof bar to watch the loveliest sunset so far. Afterward, we went back to Hog’s Breath and heard more live music and had an excellent dance.