19 Aug 15

Denys Basin was another perfect anchorage and we woke to another beautiful dawn. Anchor was aweigh by 09:00 and we cruised back through the islands and out to the main body of Bras d’Or Lake under power as the wind was light. We passed under the Barra Strait bascule bridge and then pulled into Maskells Harbor for lunch; we just turned off the engine and drifted for about half an hour. Baddeck was beckoning, so we pushed on the last 5 miles and it was a good thing we did as we got the last berth (or mooring) in town, arriving at 14:00. The marina store has lots of good marine stuff and I found a couple of the folding cleats needed to tie the life raft off on the transom. With the Admirals help inside the port stern lazarette locker, we drilled more holes in the hull and seated and fastened the cleats in place and, voila, the life raft has a proper home, out of the cockpit. We walked over to the Lobster House for dinner and shared the planked salmon, very nice. On the walk back thru town, we heard fiddle music and, following our ears, were led to the Parish Hall, where they have a nightly Ceilidh; tonight, Wendy MacIsaac (fiddle) and Mac Morin (piano) were the performers and they were spectacular. We only heard the last 20 minutes of the show, which included the two of them doing an unaccompanied duet clog dance, but the quality of the performance was unbelievable, and it only costs $10/person (we stood outside the door and listened for free). When we got back, our dock neighbors invited us over for a drink and a chat - they are from Port Hawkesbury, on the west side of Cape Breton Island. Eventually, the guitar came out and we sang songs until well past midnight, most likely much to the chagrin of some of our other neighbors.

http://youtu.be/RlYSdctTJv4

46-05.960’N, 060-44.895’W

20 Aug 15

After breakfast, with the considerable help from the shop mechanic, I fashioned a replacement hinge for the aft toilet seat out of a bit of spare aluminum bar stock; it works a treat and is way more robust than the original plastic hinge that it replaces. We rented a car and decided to drive the Cabot Trail around the NW corner of the island; it is mostly a Parks Canada wilderness area and the scenery is spectacular. As we did not start until nearly noon, we did not complete the loop until 21:30. The route included a stop for lunch at the Gaelic College of Celtic, which included a short lunch-time Ceilidh and a quick look at the Keltic Inn. Then onto the NW and the wild part of the island, a stop at the Goat Milk Soap farm, ice cream at the Lighthouse and the long drive out to Cape North. No whales were sighted, but the scenery is spectacular. We came back down the west coast, via Cheticamp, where we stopped for a dinner. Home after 21:30; long day.

21 Aug 15

Today, it was time to see historic Fortress Louisbourg, where the French began their loss of the northern North American continent to the English. This fort and the associated town has been recreated in the manner of a 1740s French town, with lots of folks dressed up in period dress, playing their respective parts as townspeople, soldiers, administrators, etc. We had lunch in a “traditional” inn and the afternoon highlight included a high society dance in the Engineers Residence; apparently, at that time, engineers were held in very high regard, earned very good salaries, and had plenty of spare time for dancing. We got back to Baddeck too late for the Ceilidh, but did buy tickets for tomorrow night’s show. Dinner was pizza from Tom’s.

22 Aug 15

Shopping day today: pottery at Margaree Valley, whisky at Glenville (at the only single malt distillery in North America: Glenora Distillery), and groceries at the Co-op. After a few light improvements to the accessory board on the port side, we had dinner aboard, then went up to the Baddeck Parish Hall to the nightly Ceilidh. Tonight’s entertainment was provided by Kenneth MacKenzie (fiddle, bagpipes and border pipes) and Buddy MacDonald (guitar and voice); more amazing talent from Cape Breton in an intimate, small setting for CAN$10/person - it does not get much better than that.

23 Aug 15

Lazy morning, as we are worn out from our touristic wanderings these last few days. After a second cup of coffee at Bean There Cafe up on the high street in Baddeck, we decided to drive up and take the walk to Uisge Ban falls. Needing the distance, we took the circuitous route - about 4 km altogether - up to the falls and back along the banks of the Baddeck River. Back to town for a late lunch at the Yellow Cello, we got back to the boat in time for a load of laundry and some more light boat chores before the rain started up just after the commencement of happy hour. We opted for a light dinner aboard, then had a planning telecom with John & Laurie to work out some of the details of their upcoming visit in mid-September.